Wallpaper removal is easy. Well, maybe it’s not really easy, but I have good news for you. Yes, stripping wallpaper is messy and it is time consuming. You would rather do almost anything else. As a professional, my clients have often told me that if not for the wallpaper removal, they would have decorated the room themselves. It is such a deterrent.
While it is a hassle to remove, most people’s real fears center around damaging the wall while stripping the paper. It’s true. You can. I’ve spent as much time repairing that damage. There is no reason that it has to happen, though. Once you understand what is really happening below the surface, wallpaper removal becomes quite simple. Let me talk you through it.
First, KNOW that this is going to be a messy job. There is no way around that. Bits and pieces of wet paper, covered in adhesive, will end up stuck to everything that’s not covered. Fortunately, it cleans up easily with some soap and water.
We can minimize the extent of the mess, though, by taking the time to place an inexpensive plastic drop cloth over the furniture. Lay a rubber backed runner along the wall. Remove everything hanging on the wall and make sure that the furniture has been moved back from the wall by at least three feet.
Okay, now that we have prepped our work area, what’s next? We need to discover what “group” we’re in. To do this, start by finding an edge and attempt to peel the paper off. Here’s where we either sink or swim. Some of the heavy vinyl and fabric wall coverings will just peel right off.
Others will split, leaving a layer of plain paper on the wall. What happens then is that when you try to tear off that layer, it comes off in small pieces. A lot of specialty papers and papers that have been painted over fall into this group. There is a third group that we’ll talk about in a few minutes.
If your wallpaper is in the first group, the wall coverings that just peel right off, enjoy the rest of your day. You got lucky. There are different strategies we can use for the other two groups that will save you both time and money.
Now, for the other 99% of us, there are a number of different products on the market that we could use to remove the wallpaper. I have tried them all. Save your money. All we really need is warm water.
Start by peeling off that top layer of paper. What’s left on the wall will be a layer of plain paper and adhesive. Apply the water to the paper with a sponge, squirt bottle, garden sprayer or whatever you have handy that will accomplish the job. Use just enough to saturate the paper without water running down the wall and making a mess.
Now for the really big secret to wallpaper removal: WAIT. That’s right, wait. Moisten the area again and wait some more. It normally takes about 20 to 30 minutes for the saturated paper to completely soften the adhesive beneath.
Next, use a 6” broad knife to remove the paper from the wall. It should come off easily and in long strips. If it does not, remoisten the paper and wait a few more minutes. Let the water do all the hard work! By wetting the wall ahead of where you are working, it is possible to move steadily around the room once you get started.
Now, about that last group. You’ve watered and waited and watered and waited. Frankly, this just isn’t working and you’re becoming impatient. The problem is getting enough water to penetrate the surface and completely saturate the core of the wallpaper. There is a solution. We need to break up the water resistant surface coating of the wallpaper without harming the wall.
Now you might be tempted to start gouging at the wallpaper or scraping it roughly. This is not a good idea. This is how you damage the wall. Then you have to spend more money because you have to call a contractor. You are also on his time schedule now.
There are special tools made should you run into this problem. I normally use a 36 grit sanding disc to abrade the surface by hand. NOTE: Using a disc this coarse with a power tool will destroy your wall. Make sure to use it manually only!
Rent a commercial wallpaper steamer. Steam passes through the perforations made by the sanding disc. It is absorbed by the paper and adhesive much quicker than water. Make repeated passes over an area with the steamer until the core of the paper becomes saturated and the adhesive softens. If an area is being particularly stubborn, try going over it again with the 36 grit disc to allow additional steam to penetrate the paper.
Don’t waste your time scraping at areas where the adhesive has not yet softened. I cannot stress enough that this is how walls get damaged. Steam the paper until the adhesive softens. Remove the paper with your 6” broad knife. You should see good results with the steamer.
So wallpaper removal is not always easy, but nobody said that it has to be a painful experience either. Have a wallpaper removal party and invite all your friends. Treat them to dinner afterwards and make it a girls’ day. Or how about a contest with the kids. Always keep a picture in your mind (or on the fridge) of how beautiful the job will turn out. Be proud! Life is too short, so don’t sweat the small stuff. Now, let’s get going!
Stop by http://www.goceilingmedallion.com for all the tools you need.
Monday, September 04, 2006
7 Steps for Easy Elegance: Visually Enhance Any Room with Panel Molding
Panel molding dates back to the Georgian period of the 1700’s. Georgian architecture is characterized by a sense of proportion and balance. Symmetry and adherence to the classical rules were valued as regular and desirable. Today, panel molding is used to break up large surfaces, which adds a formal feeling to most designs. It is also utilized as a border separating colors or textures. Visually enhance any room with decorative panel molding; from walls and doors to ceilings, these exquisite accents can be installed by the average do it yourself home owner.
As with any project, proper safety practices should be used at all times. That includes wearing hearing and eye protection as appropriate. If you need to use a respirator, dust mask or any other tool or equipment, always select the right one for the job.
Planning
When beginning any project, it is important to plan the layout. Establishing a plan keeps the job flowing smoothly. It is perhaps the most important step. Although installing panel molding requires that you have a good drawing that accurately shows the room and the pattern, you won't need to generate detailed blueprints. A pencil sketch on graph paper will do. Be certain that the measurements are accurate. Reference dimensions on the drawing to either the center of the room (or to a ceiling dome or ceiling medallion, etc..) or to the walls. This will depend on the dominant feature of your design. Although you may not have any interest in recreating an extravagant baroque ceiling for your own home, you can often find some great pattern ideas by studying the ceilings of historic castles and palaces. Look around your room and decide whether you will have full or split panels; single size or variable sizes, or symmetric sized panels. Panel molding is strictly a decorative element, so there are no rules to follow for the design. This is your opportunity to create a unique and individual design.
Ordering
When ordering your panel molding make sure that the pattern of the molding is compatible with the corners (if you are using corners) and that you have made adequate allowance for cutting waste. Remember to take pattern repeat into account when figuring cutting waste. I like to use a cut list for all trim work. It allows me to plan all of the joints before I start cutting. I use the same list to plan my order. Normally, panel molding is inexpensive due to its small profile. Therefore, you may want to save some work and order enough to eliminate as many joints as possible. You are also going to need adhesive, caulk, etc. to complete the installation.
Prefinishing
If you are not planning to finish (paint or faux finish) the ceiling and the molding at the same, you may want to prefinish the molding and then touch it up after installation.
Assemble Materials
Setup a work area close to the job and assemble your tools and materials. Look over the moldings to make sure they haven't been damaged either on shipping or on the job. Inventory your tools and supplies to ensure that everything you will need is there. If something is missing, stop and get it now rather than waiting until you need it, which inevitably is at the worst possible time.
Layout
Transfer your plan to the ceiling in full size. Layout the outline of the molding rather than the centerlines so the layout will be visible with the molding installed. Remember to reference patterns that surround ceiling domes or ceiling medallions, to the center of the feature they surround. Reference moldings that run parallel to walls to the wall (to minimize the effect of out of square or wavy walls).
Install
Because of their light weight no mechanical fasteners are required. Use an appropriate size bead of adhesive and temporary fasteners as necessary until the adhesive sets.
Finish Up
After the adhesive has set, remove the temporary fasteners or set below surface. Caulk the joint between the ceiling and the molding. Fill the holes made by the fasteners with non-shrink filler, sand, prime and paint.
Voila! Enjoy and relish in the glow of all the compliments you receive when others see how beautiful your room is with the simple addition of panel molding.
copyright 2006 goceilingmedallion.com
As with any project, proper safety practices should be used at all times. That includes wearing hearing and eye protection as appropriate. If you need to use a respirator, dust mask or any other tool or equipment, always select the right one for the job.
Planning
When beginning any project, it is important to plan the layout. Establishing a plan keeps the job flowing smoothly. It is perhaps the most important step. Although installing panel molding requires that you have a good drawing that accurately shows the room and the pattern, you won't need to generate detailed blueprints. A pencil sketch on graph paper will do. Be certain that the measurements are accurate. Reference dimensions on the drawing to either the center of the room (or to a ceiling dome or ceiling medallion, etc..) or to the walls. This will depend on the dominant feature of your design. Although you may not have any interest in recreating an extravagant baroque ceiling for your own home, you can often find some great pattern ideas by studying the ceilings of historic castles and palaces. Look around your room and decide whether you will have full or split panels; single size or variable sizes, or symmetric sized panels. Panel molding is strictly a decorative element, so there are no rules to follow for the design. This is your opportunity to create a unique and individual design.
Ordering
When ordering your panel molding make sure that the pattern of the molding is compatible with the corners (if you are using corners) and that you have made adequate allowance for cutting waste. Remember to take pattern repeat into account when figuring cutting waste. I like to use a cut list for all trim work. It allows me to plan all of the joints before I start cutting. I use the same list to plan my order. Normally, panel molding is inexpensive due to its small profile. Therefore, you may want to save some work and order enough to eliminate as many joints as possible. You are also going to need adhesive, caulk, etc. to complete the installation.
Prefinishing
If you are not planning to finish (paint or faux finish) the ceiling and the molding at the same, you may want to prefinish the molding and then touch it up after installation.
Assemble Materials
Setup a work area close to the job and assemble your tools and materials. Look over the moldings to make sure they haven't been damaged either on shipping or on the job. Inventory your tools and supplies to ensure that everything you will need is there. If something is missing, stop and get it now rather than waiting until you need it, which inevitably is at the worst possible time.
Layout
Transfer your plan to the ceiling in full size. Layout the outline of the molding rather than the centerlines so the layout will be visible with the molding installed. Remember to reference patterns that surround ceiling domes or ceiling medallions, to the center of the feature they surround. Reference moldings that run parallel to walls to the wall (to minimize the effect of out of square or wavy walls).
Install
Because of their light weight no mechanical fasteners are required. Use an appropriate size bead of adhesive and temporary fasteners as necessary until the adhesive sets.
Finish Up
After the adhesive has set, remove the temporary fasteners or set below surface. Caulk the joint between the ceiling and the molding. Fill the holes made by the fasteners with non-shrink filler, sand, prime and paint.
Voila! Enjoy and relish in the glow of all the compliments you receive when others see how beautiful your room is with the simple addition of panel molding.
copyright 2006 goceilingmedallion.com
How to Efficiently Install Ceiling Medallions
Adding a ceiling medallion is the easiest thing you can do to change the look and feel of any room in your home. Installing small ceiling medallions, up to approximately 24 inches or so, is a simple job for the average home handyman. As long as you are comfortable with changing a light fixture you should have no problem. If you are uncomfortable with removing your fixture take a look at installing a 2-piece ceiling medallion.
Safety is so important we would like to address it briefly. Always follow approved safety practices. Use hearing and eye protection. When you need to use a dust mask or respirator, be sure to use the right one for the job. Last, but not least, when working in electrical boxes, always make sure the power is turned off.
Plan the Installation-Before You Order
This is probably the most neglected step in any installation, but the most important. It is what makes the difference between a quick and efficient installation or massive frustration and numerous interruptions to run to the hardware store. The first step is to select the ceiling medallion you want to use. If you are using it in conjunction with a light fixture or a ceiling fan, you should note whether the ceiling medallion's center hole matches the fixture's trim. If they don't match you will also need to order a ceiling medallion center or a new fixture trim ring. Now is also a good time to see if the lighting fixture hardware is going to be long enough. Check the building code to make sure that there are no conflicts with your installation plans. In case of conflict, always follow local building codes. NOTE: Most building codes require you to leave access to the electrical box. Using a ceiling medallion with a 3.5-4 inch center hole provides this. Permanently mount the ceiling medallion to the ceiling and use either the fixture's trim ring or a removable ceiling medallion center to cover the electrical box. Also, make sure that the existing electrical, plumbing and framing will not interfere with your installation.
Order Materials
Now that you have planned your installation, its time to order your materials. When you order your ceiling medallion, don't forget to order the ceiling medallion center, if you are going to be using one. Order construction adhesive, caulk, fasteners and extra length light fixture hardware. Order your hardware with your ceiling medallion and save yourself a trip to the store.
Assemble Materials
Before you start, assemble all the materials near where you are going to install the ceiling medallion. Double check to see that you have everything you need before you start. Now is the time to prefinish the ceiling medallion if you want to. If you plan on doing anything more than just painting it flat white, prefinishing is recommended.
Remove Existing Fixture
TURN OFF POWER !!! Turn off electrical power at the breaker box and mark the circuit breaker so someone doesn't accidentally turn it on while you are working. Now you can safely remove the existing fixture.
Layout
We recommend having the product on hand to ensure exact measurements. Layout the area on the ceiling where you want to mount your ceiling medallion. For a small ceiling medallion, you should be able to hold it up with one hand while tracing around it with a pencil. Larger ceiling medallions may require an assistant. If you need to orient a round ceiling medallion use a single register mark at the junction of the ceiling/medallion. Mark both pieces. For oval and diamond shaped ceiling medallions, start by drawing centerlines parallel to the walls and 90 degrees apart on the ceiling. Then make register marks 90 degrees apart on the perimeter of the ceiling medallion. Locate and mark ceiling joists on the ceiling and on the medallion if you are using screws to mount (required on all plaster ceiling medallions and also on polyurethane ceiling medallions over 20 inches). Mark and/or protect wiring and plumbing if necessary to avoid fasteners penetrating them during installation.
Drill
Drill and countersink (1/8 inch deep max.) screw holes for mounting screws. Also, drill the center hole or ceiling medallion's center hole if necessary. If you don't have a hole saw of the proper size, polyurethane is easily cut with a razor knife.
Apply Adhesive
Apply adhesive according to the adhesive manufacturer's directions. Small ceiling medallions may be installed using only adhesive. Temporary clamps or fasteners may still be necessary until the adhesive sets.
Fasten
Fasten the ceiling medallion to the ceiling using coated screws in the predrilled countersunk holes. If you are unable to screw directly into the ceiling joists, the use of toggle bolts is permitted. Ceiling medallions over 20 inches in diameter and all plaster ceiling medallions require mechanical fastening.
Finish up
After the adhesive has dried, usually 24 hours, caulk the perimeter ( if needed ). Use no-shrink spackle, joint compound or plaster to patch screw holes. Feather edge or sand repairs and touch up paint. Hang up your fixture and you are done.
One final step: sit back and enjoy the simple beauty you have created.
Copyright 2005. http://www.goceilingmedallion.com
Safety is so important we would like to address it briefly. Always follow approved safety practices. Use hearing and eye protection. When you need to use a dust mask or respirator, be sure to use the right one for the job. Last, but not least, when working in electrical boxes, always make sure the power is turned off.
Plan the Installation-Before You Order
This is probably the most neglected step in any installation, but the most important. It is what makes the difference between a quick and efficient installation or massive frustration and numerous interruptions to run to the hardware store. The first step is to select the ceiling medallion you want to use. If you are using it in conjunction with a light fixture or a ceiling fan, you should note whether the ceiling medallion's center hole matches the fixture's trim. If they don't match you will also need to order a ceiling medallion center or a new fixture trim ring. Now is also a good time to see if the lighting fixture hardware is going to be long enough. Check the building code to make sure that there are no conflicts with your installation plans. In case of conflict, always follow local building codes. NOTE: Most building codes require you to leave access to the electrical box. Using a ceiling medallion with a 3.5-4 inch center hole provides this. Permanently mount the ceiling medallion to the ceiling and use either the fixture's trim ring or a removable ceiling medallion center to cover the electrical box. Also, make sure that the existing electrical, plumbing and framing will not interfere with your installation.
Order Materials
Now that you have planned your installation, its time to order your materials. When you order your ceiling medallion, don't forget to order the ceiling medallion center, if you are going to be using one. Order construction adhesive, caulk, fasteners and extra length light fixture hardware. Order your hardware with your ceiling medallion and save yourself a trip to the store.
Assemble Materials
Before you start, assemble all the materials near where you are going to install the ceiling medallion. Double check to see that you have everything you need before you start. Now is the time to prefinish the ceiling medallion if you want to. If you plan on doing anything more than just painting it flat white, prefinishing is recommended.
Remove Existing Fixture
TURN OFF POWER !!! Turn off electrical power at the breaker box and mark the circuit breaker so someone doesn't accidentally turn it on while you are working. Now you can safely remove the existing fixture.
Layout
We recommend having the product on hand to ensure exact measurements. Layout the area on the ceiling where you want to mount your ceiling medallion. For a small ceiling medallion, you should be able to hold it up with one hand while tracing around it with a pencil. Larger ceiling medallions may require an assistant. If you need to orient a round ceiling medallion use a single register mark at the junction of the ceiling/medallion. Mark both pieces. For oval and diamond shaped ceiling medallions, start by drawing centerlines parallel to the walls and 90 degrees apart on the ceiling. Then make register marks 90 degrees apart on the perimeter of the ceiling medallion. Locate and mark ceiling joists on the ceiling and on the medallion if you are using screws to mount (required on all plaster ceiling medallions and also on polyurethane ceiling medallions over 20 inches). Mark and/or protect wiring and plumbing if necessary to avoid fasteners penetrating them during installation.
Drill
Drill and countersink (1/8 inch deep max.) screw holes for mounting screws. Also, drill the center hole or ceiling medallion's center hole if necessary. If you don't have a hole saw of the proper size, polyurethane is easily cut with a razor knife.
Apply Adhesive
Apply adhesive according to the adhesive manufacturer's directions. Small ceiling medallions may be installed using only adhesive. Temporary clamps or fasteners may still be necessary until the adhesive sets.
Fasten
Fasten the ceiling medallion to the ceiling using coated screws in the predrilled countersunk holes. If you are unable to screw directly into the ceiling joists, the use of toggle bolts is permitted. Ceiling medallions over 20 inches in diameter and all plaster ceiling medallions require mechanical fastening.
Finish up
After the adhesive has dried, usually 24 hours, caulk the perimeter ( if needed ). Use no-shrink spackle, joint compound or plaster to patch screw holes. Feather edge or sand repairs and touch up paint. Hang up your fixture and you are done.
One final step: sit back and enjoy the simple beauty you have created.
Copyright 2005. http://www.goceilingmedallion.com
Trend-setting Across America: The New Medieval Architecture
Corbels, or decorative brackets, are one of the most versatile decorative ornaments that can be used to enhance the architectural beauty of any room . Corbels are growing in popularity and can be used just about anywhere. By definition, a corbel is an architectural bracket or projection from a wall. They often support a cornice, or moldings, an arch, or some other type of overhang.
In Medieval architecture, a corbel was the name given to a piece of stone which jutted out from the wall whose purpose was to support any weight lying on top of it. A ‘tassel’ or ‘bragger’ was the name given to a piece of timber extending out from the wall instead. The word corbel actually originates from the Old French and is derived from the Latin corbellus meaning raven, referring to its beak-like feature. Corbels are made from wood, plaster, marble, stone and polyurethane. Corbels are used interiorly as well as on a home’s exterior. Decorative corbels can be used to adorn cabinets, furniture, pilasters, and door panels or as brackets for shelves and mantels.
While Romanesque corbels were often plain in appearance, occasionally they were also carved into heads of humans, animals and other patterns. Sometimes they were carved into imaginary beasts. Structures built during the Early English period were frequently decorated with elaborately carved corbels.
Corbels of great size and beauty, with rich carvings, carried balconies in Italy and France. These were some of the greatest examples of the Italian 16th century style. In England, wooden corbels bearing window-sills or oriel windows flourish. Gothic Revival style homes and buildings are often built with oriel windows.
Corbels occasionally end with a point that looks like it is growing into the wall or forming a knot. These are many times bolstered by angels and other figures. In later periods, carved foliage and other ornamentation was adopted.
Corbelling, which has been used since Neolithic times, is a technique where rows of corbels support a parapet or a projecting wall. Between the supporting corbels of the battlement, was an opening in the floor called a machicolation. Stones, burning objects or hot liquids could be released onto enemies or attackers at the foot of the defensive wall.
Common in Medieval architecture, corbelling later became a decorative feature without the openings of the machicolations. Corbelling which supports upper stories and corner turrets became typical of the Scottish Baronial style during the 18th and early 19th centuries.
Today, decorating with architectural corbels has been adopted by homeowners, interior decorators, builders, millworkers and furniture designers. Use corbels with crown molding to add flair and style to any home restoration project. Create lasting impressions and beautiful architectural designs that reflect anyone’s personal style. Decorative brackets are great accents to use on furniture, walls, as art, or even on the exterior of a home. They truly are setting trends across America!
In Medieval architecture, a corbel was the name given to a piece of stone which jutted out from the wall whose purpose was to support any weight lying on top of it. A ‘tassel’ or ‘bragger’ was the name given to a piece of timber extending out from the wall instead. The word corbel actually originates from the Old French and is derived from the Latin corbellus meaning raven, referring to its beak-like feature. Corbels are made from wood, plaster, marble, stone and polyurethane. Corbels are used interiorly as well as on a home’s exterior. Decorative corbels can be used to adorn cabinets, furniture, pilasters, and door panels or as brackets for shelves and mantels.
While Romanesque corbels were often plain in appearance, occasionally they were also carved into heads of humans, animals and other patterns. Sometimes they were carved into imaginary beasts. Structures built during the Early English period were frequently decorated with elaborately carved corbels.
Corbels of great size and beauty, with rich carvings, carried balconies in Italy and France. These were some of the greatest examples of the Italian 16th century style. In England, wooden corbels bearing window-sills or oriel windows flourish. Gothic Revival style homes and buildings are often built with oriel windows.
Corbels occasionally end with a point that looks like it is growing into the wall or forming a knot. These are many times bolstered by angels and other figures. In later periods, carved foliage and other ornamentation was adopted.
Corbelling, which has been used since Neolithic times, is a technique where rows of corbels support a parapet or a projecting wall. Between the supporting corbels of the battlement, was an opening in the floor called a machicolation. Stones, burning objects or hot liquids could be released onto enemies or attackers at the foot of the defensive wall.
Common in Medieval architecture, corbelling later became a decorative feature without the openings of the machicolations. Corbelling which supports upper stories and corner turrets became typical of the Scottish Baronial style during the 18th and early 19th centuries.
Today, decorating with architectural corbels has been adopted by homeowners, interior decorators, builders, millworkers and furniture designers. Use corbels with crown molding to add flair and style to any home restoration project. Create lasting impressions and beautiful architectural designs that reflect anyone’s personal style. Decorative brackets are great accents to use on furniture, walls, as art, or even on the exterior of a home. They truly are setting trends across America!
Ceiling Medallions, Crown Molding, and Ceiling Domes: 3 Ways to Add Elegance and Beauty to Any Room
I want to draw attention to your ceiling. Take a look at it. What do you see up there? Ceilings are an often neglected area of the room when it comes time to redecorate (or repair). There are so many things that you can do too, that are inexpensive, yet provide the simple elegance that speaks to your style. Choose decorative ceiling medallions, crown molding, ceiling domes, rosettes, or panel molding, just to name a few. Three of my favorite ways to accent a ceiling: ceiling medallions, ceiling domes, and crown molding.
One of the easiest and least time-consuming projects is the installation of a ceiling medallion. Although in the past they were made from plaster, today these decorative ornaments are made of lightweight polyurethane foam. This makes them much easier to handle. Ceiling medallions are used to draw attention to chandeliers and light fixtures, or to enhance crown molding. They can also be combined with a rosette and used to decorate an otherwise plain ceiling. You can use these architectural ornaments as wall decorations. Use several small ones in the hallway. Ceiling medallions are versatile and come in many styles and sizes. They can be painted to match any room. Ceiling medallions are one of the most popular architectural details.
Ceiling domes are similar to ceiling medallions in that they can transform any room into a work of art. However, they are larger and actually recessed into the ceiling, necessitating that they be planned for at the time of construction. Ceiling domes effectively enhance a foyer, dining room, living room, or even the bathroom.
Crown molding, also referred to as crown moulding, or cornice, is probably THE most important architectural element used to define any interior space. Most of today’s interior designers agree that every room benefits from the use of crown molding treatment. Crown molding smoothes the transition from wall to ceiling and does much to define the architectural style of a room. The size and style of crown molding used may vary widely, from a simple cove in a farmhouse kitchen to a large built-up cornice in a grand entry.
These are just a few of the architectural designs and accents you can use to enhance the overall experience of all who enter into your home. Just don’t forget the ceiling!
One of the easiest and least time-consuming projects is the installation of a ceiling medallion. Although in the past they were made from plaster, today these decorative ornaments are made of lightweight polyurethane foam. This makes them much easier to handle. Ceiling medallions are used to draw attention to chandeliers and light fixtures, or to enhance crown molding. They can also be combined with a rosette and used to decorate an otherwise plain ceiling. You can use these architectural ornaments as wall decorations. Use several small ones in the hallway. Ceiling medallions are versatile and come in many styles and sizes. They can be painted to match any room. Ceiling medallions are one of the most popular architectural details.
Ceiling domes are similar to ceiling medallions in that they can transform any room into a work of art. However, they are larger and actually recessed into the ceiling, necessitating that they be planned for at the time of construction. Ceiling domes effectively enhance a foyer, dining room, living room, or even the bathroom.
Crown molding, also referred to as crown moulding, or cornice, is probably THE most important architectural element used to define any interior space. Most of today’s interior designers agree that every room benefits from the use of crown molding treatment. Crown molding smoothes the transition from wall to ceiling and does much to define the architectural style of a room. The size and style of crown molding used may vary widely, from a simple cove in a farmhouse kitchen to a large built-up cornice in a grand entry.
These are just a few of the architectural designs and accents you can use to enhance the overall experience of all who enter into your home. Just don’t forget the ceiling!
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